South Sardinia has such an amazing coastline, that it is hard to decide which direction to go, in less than 100 km distance you can get two of Sardinia’s pearls, Costa del Sud and Costa Verde. After long thinking I decided to do what I would normally do if I can’t decide between the two, I went for both. I split my holiday week on half, with a chances to see not one but two sides of the South Sardinia and it’s famously clear sea, golden sand dunes and the coastal ponds with pink flamingos.
We landed in Cagliari and direction one was towards Costa Verde, the so called green coast 60 km east from Cagliari. Settled in the cozy holiday village of Villasimius, we were ready to get on the beach.
Porto Giunco beach
First stop, obviously – flamingo swamp, I had to make sure those flamingos are real. On the back of Porto Giunco beach is a large pond called Notteri, where the pink beauties, noisy as usual are splashing in the dirty waters. Absolutely unreal! Porto Giunco is beautiful long sandy beach, with countless Bibita & Panini places, and a view over a ancient watchtower. Watchtowers, seems to be THE thing of this part of Sardinia, as almost every beach now and then had it. The other THING of this part of Sardinia is a wine called in the name of the beach (Giunco), or maybe beach called after wine – who know’s who was first, but wine is really good.
Walking down the Porto Giunco you will come to a small beach separated from the rest of the coast with few piles of rocks. Timi ana beach is located on the half way from the town’s main beach and the Porto Giunco, and while seriously beautiful, it had strong winds and currents, and didn’t leave me that impressed. There was a restaurant on the back of the beach, which offered average pasta and pizzas, but for those who like to beach in style, at the sea front was a shmancy beach club.
Just for curiosity we went to check the main beach, and as expected, you were fighting for space already in the water. But what was worth the visit, was a discovery of really cool open air lounge club/ restaurant hidden in the trees at the entrance of the beach. We went there in the evening for live music and some seriously good cocktails.
Costa rei beach
The “Creme de la creme” beaches of Costa Verde are little further, 14km north of Villasimius are stunning 8km long sandy beaches of Costa Rei. I took the challenge of hitting the waves with a borrowed child body surf (which turned out broken… no surprise life guard didn’t take any money for it). After not so successful attempt to surf the sea, we went for one of the cute beach bars for some afternoon Prosecco which only here is served in a proper mini ice buckets and topped up with some free snacks. Top tip: if you want to eat in Costa rei during the day, stay on the beach – restaurants in the town are empty for a reason.
Porto Su Ruxi
Last day in Villasimius we get up bright and early, targeting to spend as much time as we can on the beach. Destination of the day – Porto su ruxi, small bay just few km outside of Villasimius, recommended by locals. To our disappointment, it was a long, curvy drive down the mountain and for the effort we actually were charged 4 euro (for the parking). We still had to walk half a mile further down to the water. Sun was burning hot, but water so shallow you had to walk miles to get the water as deep as your knees, and by the time you walked back to the beach, you were hot and sweaty again. This was clearly no working out for us.
I pulled out my beach map and looked for alternatives. Campus beach was just around the corner, and we decide to give it a try. It quickly turned out to be a camping village, where you are not welcomed if you don’t own a camper or don’t have the camping spirit in your eyes. We clearly didn’t have either of two.
Well, that left us with the last beach on my map Campolungo, it was just couple km from where we currently were. But once we start driving, it become clear that this is not gonna be easy. We drove the same road 3 times back and forth, hoping that we have missed the side road, as on the map we clearly were in the right place and beach was at our fingertips, but there was no road to get there. I finally gave up and let my driver take the lead, 5 minutes later we were there, as it turned out – what looked like entrance to private holiday village ( we passed it 6 times), was the only way to access beach by car.
After walking through beautiful sand dunes, we finally were there. Long, empty beach, with precious umbrellas, and water so warm, I thought I was taking big salty bath. Obviously there was no reason to leave. It was a long day, and after this we were ready for move on to Costa del Sud.
You can find all the Villasimius beachesbelow: